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Hot topic, I risk being stoned, but I think it's important to deal with it, so I accept the risk. But first of all, I'll make a premise: I've had campers with rear wheel drive and single wheel, I've had campers with rear wheel drive and twin wheels, I've had campers with front wheel drive, but I've NEVER chosen a trip , a destination or a holiday thinking about the traction of my camper. Front-wheel drive is the one we all know, given that our cars (I would say at least 80%) are practically all like this. In the event of loss of grip (cornering in the wet) the front-wheel drive is simple and intuitive to manage given that the driving wheels are also those that give direction, lifting your foot from the accelerator gives the front wheels the necessary grip and direction again. In the event of steep and slippery climbs, the front drive wheels can slip, precisely because the weight rests on the rear axle, which obviously does not happen in rear-wheel drive, which in these cases wins hands down. Rear wheel drive , for its part, is more "treacherous", and in the wet, and generally in situations of poor grip, the power of the wheels must be managed carefully, to avoid skidding (those who have had cars with rear wheel drive, I am thinking of my old Ford escort from the 70s, he knows that spinning when cornering in the wet was always around the corner). However, I must honestly say that in a camper, given that it is used purely on the road or on easy dirt roads, in normal situations critical conditions are not created, and the choice between front or rear wheel drive is, in my opinion, more philosophical than anything else . Maintain a good safety distance , better to exaggerate, adequate attention in case of snow (mount the chains on the driving wheels) or rain, a moderate speed, however, is always very important, much more than the type of traction. Single or twin wheels. All campers touch the ground ONLY through the tyres , which support the weight of the vehicle and are subjected to strong stresses when cornering, accelerating, braking and in the event of impacts (holes, pavements ...). It is therefore essential to fit good quality tyres , have them checked periodically by the tire specialist, always keep them at the right pressure (a TPMS device is useful for monitoring). Motorhomes with twin wheels have the advantage of distributing the rear weight over the four tyres, and in the event of a puncture or explosion, the vehicle remains stable because it always has the surviving wheel to rely on. It is clear that the single rear wheels are penalized in these cases .

I have checked the information I am about to give you in the manufacturers' price lists available as of October 2021 , however consider them in any case indicative because there are so many models and mechanics setups and they have changed so much over time, that it is impossible for me to be more precise. I remind you that any vehicle with a total weight on the ground greater than 3500 kg requires a C license for driving. Fiat Ducato . There is no doubt: it is the mechanical basis of the vast majority of motorhomes. The Ducato was born as a light commercial vehicle and its structure was designed for weights ranging from 2800 to 4250 kg. It always has front wheel drive and always single rear wheels. There is also a three-axle version, used by some manufacturers for particularly large vehicles. There are 4x4 versions of the Fiat Ducato made by Dangel, a French company specializing in four-wheel drive vehicles that can be fitted to Ducato or Citroen mechanicals (they have the same chassis and transmission). Mechanical base used by all manufacturers, in any price range. Iveco Daily. It is a light commercial vehicle built on a sturdy chassis which has the typical structure of a heavy work vehicle. It has rear-wheel drive and can have single or twin wheel axles. The acronym shown above the front mudguard gives information on the fully loaded mass (GVW), the type of vehicle and the power. For example 35C17 means GVW 35 quintals, C stands for light truck (therefore rear axle with twin wheels), 17 is the power rounded up (170 horsepower). Instead of the C, there may be an L (light van, single wheels, with lower GVW) or an S (larger van, single wheels, with GVW up to 35 quintals). There are 4x4 versions of the Daily. Mechanical base used by many manufacturers, especially in the construction of vehicles in the medium-high or high price range. Ford Transit. Light commercial vehicle, with GVW between 2940 and 5000 kg, can have front, rear or all-wheel drive (the Trail version, used, for example, in the outfitting of some pure vans/campers). Generally used in the construction of motor homes in the rear-wheel drive version with twin wheels. Mechanical base used by some manufacturers, perhaps it was more present in the past. Mercedes-Benz Sprinter . Light commercial vehicles with GVW between 3000 and 5000 kg, can be front-, rear- or all-wheel drive. Mechanical base used by various manufacturers in high or medium-high price range vehicles, generally in the rear-wheel drive version . Other mechanics. As I said above, the world of mechanics used for campers is vast, you can find vehicles on Renault Masters, Citroen Jumpers (especially vans), Volkswagens (think of all Westfalia-equipped Transporters), in short, a nice assortment.

First of all, I want to underline that my advice is to choose the camper according to the use you will make of it , and it is for this reason that I have set up this article by drawing a path that will help you (I hope) to focus on your needs for get to the identification of the right type of camper for you, without giving pre-packaged recipes. But I want to spend a few words on mechanics, construction types of cells and systems , because I believe that having a minimum of technical information will be useful or, at least, of interest to you. When talking about your motorhome , the first thing you say is always the make and mechanics . In fact, saying "I have a Laika on Iveco" immediately gives our interlocutor some important information: the manufacturer is Laika, a well-known Italian company that joined the Hymer group a few years ago, which installed that cell on Iveco mechanicals. Nice find, you'll say, but wait, these two bits of information are already telling you something about that camper, let's go in order .

Now I want to talk to you about the main accessories to be installed in the camper cell (or which you may find already installed if you buy a used one), to be clear those generally sold after market by dealers. If, on the other hand, you want to take a look at everyday accessories , from wedges to clotheshorses, I suggest you read this article . Before delving into the useful accessories, I have to make a small clarification by asking you to answer the question "what is a motorhome for you?" It may seem like a strange question, but for accessories, it all depends on your opinion. The two most extreme answers are emblematic : a camper is a house on wheels, I need an oven, microwave, electric coffee machine, juice extractor, and much more a camper is a van with a bed, all I need is a comfortable mattress and a stove. In short, there are hundreds of accessories for the camper, all are useful and all are useless , it's up to you. My personal answer to the question is that, except for special needs and specific situations, a motorhome must allow me to travel easily, without wasting time setting up and dismantling a camp, it must offer me "camping" internal comfort and it must be autonomous (neither I speak later). Start from your idea of ​​camper and evaluate the accessories according to your needs (you know, these will change, but you can always adapt). The awning , the one fixed to the wall above the door and which opens "by crank", is certainly one of the most requested accessories, it is useful at stops (where opening is permitted). I feel more like recommending its installation than against it, but personally I practically never use it, I've even had campers without it. The important thing for me is that it remains a simple awning , without side walls, mats on the ground and other gadgets that make it an anchor. It must open and close in two minutes. I consider the bike rack or other system for transporting two wheels to be important. Keep in mind that bike racks have a range and even the walls on which they are installed can suffer if too much stress. 4 adult bicycles are heavy, you have to come up with something to support them: there are those who tie a strap between the outermost channel and the luggage rack (in an attempt to unload the wall a little), there are those who build a support (like leg ) bottom to "pin" in some way on the frame and make the bike rack a sort of shelf (but these changes should be put in the booklet and I don't think they can be approved). In essence, up to three bikes any solution is fine, from four upwards I consider the garage locker or a roof rack necessary installed on the frame (it is not always possible). Possibly the "2 in and two out" solution is excellent : 2 on the bike rack and 2 in the garage. The inverter (did you read the description in the definitions paragraph?) is certainly useful, we all depend on the batteries of our cell phones, cameras, computers, and for these uses a small 600 watt inverter is enough, however it needs to be installed ALWAYS by competent professionals. For everything that can be recharged via USB, it's better to install a few sockets here and there, to avoid waste and unnecessary installations. To use appliances that need more power (classic the hair dryer) you need bigger inverters, but also consider that an inverter "transforms" the current from 12 to 220 volts by wasting some of it, so you must have a sufficient reserve , sizing the battery pack adequately. You must also have an inverter-battery connection done in a workmanlike manner, badly installed inverters catch fire . The current generator . I find it really difficult to talk about it, but it is an often requested accessory. Sure, a lot of electrical consumers = a lot of energy needed. Who has an air conditioner and wants to use it without being connected to the 220, for example, how does he do it? But a generator (even if there are silenced ones) annoys the neighbors (especially if they are neighbors), burns petrol and smells bad. Except for special needs (for me practically limited to health reasons only) I would never take it into consideration . The air conditioner is also a very popular accessory. For use it needs to be connected to 220 volts (therefore in a campsite or rest area, it can also be used with a generator, but for this read my opinion above), on hot days it is effective, like those at home. In addition to normal air conditioners, there are also coolers that operate on 12 volts by exploiting the evaporation of water (they have their own tank). It seems that they are becoming more and more fashionable, there are those who speak well and those who speak badly about them. I'd like to gather the opinions of those who have it in the comments . Rooflight with fan: it is a good helper for the air exchange in the vehicle. Excellent if capable of sucking in or extracting air, because it will be useful for expelling vapours, odours, humidity and heat, or, by turning it in the opposite direction, for forcing fresh outside air into the vehicle. It works at 12 volts, so it can always be used (compatibly with the electric range). It is important that it is silent, so that it can also be used at night (it helps to keep the cell cool), that it has more speed (to identify the best useful flow) and that it is equipped with a mosquito net (perhaps easily removable without tools). Generally these portholes are applicable in roof openings of 40x40 cm. There are various types and brands, but my advice is to install a good one, the savings in this case translate into noise during use, one or two speeds, single direction of rotation. For years i have been used Turbo Vent della Fiamma , for some time there has also been a new product, more expensive but which promises a lot (I haven't personally tried it) in terms of usability (even in case of rain) and versatility (it has a thermostat, and is equipped with a remote control), it is called MaxxFan Deluxe . The photovoltaic system , or the solar panels that are often installed on the camper: is it needed? Of course yes, it recharges the service battery and the engine battery (if the system is equipped with a paralleler or equivalent function in the charge regulator), and therefore increases the electric autonomy. But it all depends on your way of experiencing the camper : are you strictly sedentary? Do you always stop at campsites or equipped areas? Do you do a lot of free time? Do you move very frequently? Do you consume a lot of electricity? In my first camper (kept for 10 years) I had only one service battery and the utilities were only the lights, the water pump and the ventilation of the stove (it was a Trumatic, so the ventilation had its own separate switch), I never installed a solar panel. But my travel style was highly itinerant and I hardly managed to spend two nights in the same spot, so there weren't many batteries to recharge (mobile phones, cameras, PCs, tablets), much less electric coffee makers, no 'there weren't even many rest areas and therefore, every now and then, we entered the campsite to load and unload, "a knock" on the batteries and maybe do a washing machine. It worked. counteract the self-discharge of the batteries , even if a good battery switch does its duty very well. Summing up: the panels are a good way to increase energy autonomy (among other things while respecting the environment), but it is said that not everyone needs them, depending on how the camper is used, and in every case they can be installed at any time.

Again for homologation reasons, referring above all to 35 quintal approved vehicles, camper manufacturers often equip the vehicles with the infamous puncture "repair kit". I don't know if anyone has ever actually used it, but listen to me: it doesn't give you any chance to continue after a good puncture. First of all, make sure that when you take out the insurance, the roadside assistance (absolutely essential) provided also includes the call for puncture , this is usually the case, but it is better to check. Sometimes the call for drilling is not included if made in the municipality of residence, watch out! Then it would be better to have a real spare wheel , with a jack suitable for reach and extension (of the hydraulic bottle type) and cross wrenches of the right length. The problem is where to put the spare wheel , it is often placed under the floor with a sort of basket to keep it anchored, a solution which creates many difficulties in extracting it when needed. If possible, it is better to put it in the garage , well secured and within easy reach. I've always had a spare wheel in all my campers (I don't even want to see the kit) but I've always carried it ... in the basket under the floor. I will be obvious, but in case of a puncture: do not go under the camper if it has been jacked up and make sure you loosen the bolts of the punctured wheel before jacking it up . Some good advice here .

I'm not going to deal with the topic of the Highway Code, I'm planning a specific article for this, but with the aim of giving you more information for buying , I want to talk about some aspects that I consider important. We can divide campers into two categories : up to 35 quintals and over 35 quintals, of course the official document to be taken into consideration is the booklet, which shows the total weight of the vehicle we are evaluating when fully loaded. The former, those up to 35 quintals, are driven with a B license , and are required to undergo the first inspection 4 years after registration, and subsequent inspections every 2 years. Campers over 3.5 quintals are driven with a C1 license , in practice a C with a limit of 7.5 quintals and is not professional (therefore the exam does not include tachographs, freight transport ...). Even campers over 35 quintals are required to be inspected 4 years after registration and then every 2 years, but the operation must be carried out exclusively at the Civil Motorization centres. I'm obviously talking about approved motorhome vehicles. The vast majority of campers you see around are approved for 35 quintals. The fully loaded weight is a very important element to evaluate , the value declared in the booklet must never be exceeded. Unfortunately it is very easy to go over the limit, social networks are full of requests like "I have to go to Austria, will they weigh me down?". There's nothing to do, the only thing is to travel respecting the weight shown in the booklet. Some precautions can be useful: traveling without water, with little fuel, leaving useless accessories at home, few food supplies, avoiding cases of mineral water, etc., but basically you have to be careful when buying. Ask for precise information on weight , and if the answer is "but we are all in these conditions anyway" do not accept it as a solution . The homologation of the seats for circulation is also important , in fact it is not uncommon for a camper (I am speaking of the 3.5 quintals) to have a different number of homologated travel seats (less) than the number of beds. This is not an error or a scam, the fact is that the manufacturer, in order to pass the homologation of the vehicle, must deal with the weights, therefore to return to the parameters, he lowers the number of homologated seats. Remember: it is forbidden to travel in excess . The external dimensions affect driving and agility, the height of the overcab must be considered in the case of protruding elements on the roadway (trees, balconies, signs ...), in tunnels and underpasses, when camping during maneuvers. The width and length will condition the passage in narrow streets, small villages, hairpin bends ... It is always the rule to inquire in case of doubt (it is better not to say "I'll try") and to get help in the most risky manoeuvres, from someone who get off the camper. The quarrel between wife (on the ground to give directions) and husband (driving to maneuver): we've all been there, it's almost a baptism of fire. The length of the camper is also important because beyond 7 meters (or beyond 3.5 quintals) you cannot travel in the third lane, but this is not a problem, the camper is not made to be in a hurry and safety comes before everything . However, the length is also the parameter with which the fare on the ferries is calculated, generally you go by 50 cm by 50 cm: the fares change at 6 metres, 6.5, 7, 7.5. A motorhome of 6.99 meters pays less than one of 7.01. The overhang of the vehicle , i.e. the part of the camper between the rear axle and the end of the vehicle, is an important aspect, the more overhang there is, the more there is a risk of touching the underside in the event of an uphill steep and ferry ramps, plus the "scoda" overhang when turning (right turn and the "scoda" overhang to the left, left turn and the "scoda" overhang to the right) and this must be taken into account in the maneuvers and in tight spaces.

Camper means autonomy , but autonomy does not mean any limits . Water runs out, gas or fuel runs out, batteries run out. As you get used to shopping again when you run out of food and drink, you will also need to get used to managing energy and water independence. This habit, which then becomes automatic like riding a bike, will come with use, but when it comes to buying a camper, choosing it, what should you do? Do you need attention? It may seem like "the more water the better", but bear in mind that 300 liters of water will definitely overload you compared to your camper's 3.5 liters maximum, and you will then be traveling to countries with a load of water. then possible. Do you need that much water? In my experience 100 liters of water is the right compromise. If anything, instead of adding water (and weight) I'd spend a few euros (less than forty between kitchen , bathroom and shower ) on setup (which includes replacing aerators screwed into faucets, this takes 20 or 30 seconds) waste ( like eco water and eco shower) ) is a simple and really effective method that allows you to limit Built-in comfort is complemented by the presence of a heating system (stove) and a boiler for domestic hot water. The warm air from the heater needs to be well distributed in the cell, so check the position of the outlets and ask if the recovery tanks are insulated, this will allow you to go outside even in extremely cold conditions in winter. If you buy a used one, especially if it's out of date, some manufacturers check the presence of the stove, sewer and boiler to make the purchase price more competitive, they made entry-level campers without these systems (of course declaring it was a choice marketing ) and leaving the possibility of establishing them after market interventions.

I would say that the garage closet represents an interesting topic, it is generally available today in a variety of layouts and layouts. Undoubtedly , both the outdoor table, chairs or sun loungers, a spare wheel (by installing a system for its fastening), mattresses and accessories for the beach, boots and other ski equipment (which will also be dried). The name suggests putting a bike, scooter or even a scooter. The important thing is to respect the maximum weight. it can be carried in the garage both to prevent the load-bearing structure from being overstressed and to avoid camper drivability issues. In fact, since the garage is beyond the rear axle, the excess weight will tend to lighten the support on the front axle too much (in practice it will increase it), which will affect the directionality and handling. Staying within the limits declared by the manufacturer will prevent these difficulties. Naturally, the maximum weight limit at full load must always be observed . Most often it is used for the dog , if the garage is heated (usually there is at least one duct outlet) and the living unit is communicated via a door (this is not always available, but can still be done) . kennel Fido or Felix. If so, watch out for the temperature, it may be too high for the fur baby's den. Some caravans are double decker . It is useful because it improves the insulation of the cabin , because it usually contains tanks and technical compartments in a protected and sometimes heated environment, therefore it is frost-proof, because it allows the material to be stacked in a low position and between the two axles . contributes to keeping the vehicle's center of gravity centered and low. Someone will tell you that a double coat is necessary for winter use: this is not true, it is useful and improves insulation, but not essential.

Stoves, refrigerator and bathroom give you autonomy, the hood is useful, the oven ... it's up to you. I start with the stove , usually there are three or two burners on the stove . Your proclivity for stir-frying makes a difference, of course, but I don't think this is one of the most important considerations when choosing a campervan. Three pots on the fire at the same time are unlikely to fit, and you probably need two. The presence of a hood helps eliminate steam and odors , especially during the winter months when keeping the kitchen window wide open will allow too much cold to come in and affect the cooking and temperature of the food . The header is useful if you have it , but you can go without it. A ventilated skylight (I'll talk about this later) does a very good job of absorbing steam and odors from the kitchen, and is also useful for internal recirculation and ventilation compared to a hood. Sometimes there is also a gas oven , usually on top of the refrigerator, but remember that you can often replace it with specialty pans. Some good ideas on how to furnish your caravan's kitchen (including some ideas for the oven) can be found here . The refrigerator is absolutely necessary and gives you autonomy. There are two "category" refrigerators: trivalent ones (they run on gas, 12 volts or 220 volts) and those with a compressor (always 12 volts). The major difference is that the trivalent ones (the vast majority of those fitted to campers) can create a temperature difference of about 30 degrees between the inside and outside temperature, so they are "less cold" than those with fully cold compressors. just like those housewives. Where is the catch ? Compressor ones , they "always" consume current even if they are "connected and disconnected" just like the ones at home, so you only need to turn them on "only when needed" (you'll never have any problems when connected to the 220 volt mains ) . works and therefore never runs out of battery . But of course the beer is colder at 2:00 pm at sea in midsummer than those with a compressor. I've always had trivalent refrigerators. ... and the bathroom. Having your own bathroom at all times is not only a matter of autonomy, but also of hygiene and cleanliness. Sometimes it's just "having a private bathroom in reserve" that provides the camper's balance rather than other solutions. When choosing your camper, consider that there are two types of toilets: cassette toilets and marine toilets . The first has a removable 18 liter tank that you can easily empty into the appropriate facilities, the second has a larger fixed sewage collection tank, 50-70 liters, but to empty it you have to move the caravan and go to the caravan service. . The difference lies in the ease of emptying the cistern at the expense of its autonomy. If you want to know more about the subjectI suggest you read the article how the caravan toilet works . There are bathrooms that are integrated with a shower tray , practically floor-standing, or there are bathrooms with separate showers . The difference is obvious, it's more comfortable to have a separate shower and you can also use it to put a drying rack ( vertical ones are best for me) ) or wet jackets. If you have children on the plane, it is easier to wash them. But it is also inevitable that caravans with separate showers will not hold the best compactness records. "Dynamic" solutions, ie bathrooms with revolving walls that turn into showers when needed, are making progress. It's like having a virtual separate shower. The solution seems interesting to me, especially in that it includes the length of the vehicle (in some vans it's a Columbus egg), but beware of the fact: It shouldn't be precarious and light, otherwise it'll be just one more thing. Frangible.

The idea is as old as the world: when space is limited, it's strategic to make environments "double faced" . Then there are bathrooms that turn into shower stalls, desks and counters that turn into beds, lockers with variable volumes, folding beds to make room for bikes, etc. First of all, an example: the classic double dining room that transforms into a double bed . After a few minutes, the transformation is complete: tables and sofas by day, mattresses by night. Just lower the table and place it between the two benches, widen the seats, reposition the cushions to create the mattress, make the bed. 5 minutes and it's ready. Same operations in the morning to restore the dining room. Would you do these procedures every evening and every morning during your 20-day vacation? Would you mind not having a dining room as one uses it as a bed (unless there is a second dining room)? When it's raining or when someone wants to relax and someone else wants to use the computer, consider: What compromises are unacceptable to you? I've known very happy and very relaxed people who have changed and repurposed everything in a 6-foot van over the years, but I also know people who don't want to hear about it, except in exceptional circumstances. The same thing happens in some bathrooms: swiveling toilets (shower or something else) to drain the shower tray, folding sinks or swivel walls to create an insulated shower tray, and shower without getting the fixtures, mirrors, and fixtures wet. cabinets. In some cases the solutions are really convincing. The upside of convertible is given by great campers where everything has a place and doesn't share it. Then there is the toilet and sink on one side of the corridor, bathrooms with shower cabins on the other , sailor double beds at the back, twin beds with wardrobes underneath. What I can express is my point of view , as the choice is always purely personal and all the choices considered are considered correct . I love air, light and space : I avoid very low lofts, beds tucked between closets and closets, large spaces without windows. I always try to keep the beds ready for normal crew at all times, avoid conversions. The only exception is the pull-out bed (typical, but not exclusive to caravans), which is simple to lower and raise, can stay built and therefore can be used quickly. But when open it should at least partially free the dining room and not hinder the use of the cell door. Every bed should have a window next to it , the porthole usually above it for up and down doors is in good condition. Normal and useful bathroom with or without separate shower Always available dining room, knee room, deep seating (I like to sit cross-legged) and ease of access With these features (crew of 4 people) I have had caravans between 6.99 and 7.30 meters, caravans with overhead cabins or caravans. I would also consider a van for two people but definitely not "short", I like to have the right space (less is better), I don't worry about air and light, exterior size and parking

If you've compiled two lists of requirements, the crew will come strictly in order of importance, or rather, by the number of people who make up the crew. A bed for everyone, a place to travel, and a place at the table: obviously. During short or long journeys, the number of passengers MUST be at most as specified in the vehicle booklet: this number cannot be exceeded. All seat occupants ( traveling and turning in beds in the caravan is prohibited), fastened seat belts and legal child seats . A child seat cannot be used for lightly worn campers without a seat belt, take this into account when choosing. Confirmation first: Check the booklet carefully for how many people the camper you are about to take has been approved for. Most campers in the category of 3.5 quintals today are approved for four ( hence travel destinations). If you look carefully, you'll also find motorhomes that have been approved for several, these are usually cabin tops, especially older models (forgive the term, it's meant to indicate that it's only done once). ATTENTION they will often tell you about sleeping places, for example check if the beautiful camper you are about to buy with 7 sleeping places (one upper cabin with a bunk bed and two dining rooms) is also approved for the same number of passengers, this is not always the case (Of course, it's okay to buy a caravan for 5 people and 7 people, depending on your preference, it means you will stand wider). The dining room is the center of RV life : you'll need it to eat, play, read and do your homework. Sometimes even more than one thing at the same time. Each person should have their own, comfortable and easily accessible place. Driver and passenger seats are increasingly used to supplement the number of seats in the dining room, they are mounted on swivel plates and do their double duty well. However, I would do a little check if the two seats rotate easily (I once saw a friend's camper have to open the door to turn the driver's seat because the armrest impedes movement). Try to sit on the seats facing the table and check if you can eat on them. (sometimes they're too far away or too high/low and don't allow much adjustment). Then try to sit in every seat in the dining room, the seats should be deep enough and comfortable. In L-shaped dining rooms , the seat against the wall is almost always (I always say) a little shallower, try it. When it comes to beds , certain things have to be considered: comfort , i.e. the size and softness of the bed, tidiness , i.e. the "over-imaginary" shapes of the bed (try to imagine making the bed and sleeping on it can be used well), accessibility , i.e. stairs or any other thing to use. thing (assess your athletic agility), safety , especially for children at heights there should be a net, air and light , a window or porthole , which ensures air exchange towards each bed , heating , If you want to use the caravan even in winter , sleeping areas, even the attic, should be drained check if it is in good condition. Crew , travel and accommodation

Perhaps the first reason that comes to mind when it comes to choosing between new and used is the economic one, but in reality there are many others that can guide a person in the choice of used, for example the passion for vintage campers (and I guarantee you that there are many people attracted by this type of vehicle), or the search for simple mechanics (especially to limit electronics), or even the preference for functional and inconspicuous fittings . Even if I have a specific article planned, and as soon as it is ready I will insert the link here, a simple reminder of important things to evaluate for the purchase of a used camper I want to anticipate it for you: keep in mind the circulation restrictions Euro 0, 1, 2 ... check the administrative documentation of the vehicle, the registration, the revisions, the coupons have the obvious checks done on the mechanics , engine, brakes, mileage consider the age of the batteries (engine and cell) and their condition, check that they charge correctly (alternator, 220v cable, solar panel) the tyres , consider that beyond the kilometers travelled, the change is recommended (I would say highly recommended) every 4 or 5 years , and the expense is not exactly negligible check the operation of all the systems : fridge, hot water boiler, heating and air distribution (it must come out of all the vents), stove, if there is a photovoltaic system check that it works check that the connection of the camper to 220v (using the appropriate cable) works and that the internal sockets work, also test the fridge at 220v plumbing: working pump and water from all taps, don't forget to flush the toilet bathroom: shower tray and sink NOT cracked; toilet intact and, if orientable, it must turn well; try to insert and remove the cassette, the operation should be smooth if there is a LPG tank , check that it is approved and written in the booklet, check the expiry date (it must be replaced at 10 years there is NO inspection, the cost is not indifferent, if you are not interested in the tank, consider that you will have to restore the system of cylinders, less expense than changing the cylinder) if there are gas cylinders , check if there is a selector to switch from one cylinder to another (useful) and if there is an approved crash sensor (for example the Truma one), necessary to travel with open cylinders (think about heating the airframe while traveling in winter) clear water tank : where is it? Inspect it to see if there are any algae stains or dirt inside gray and black tank (if the toilet is nautical) : check their position, if they are insulated and heated (necessary for frequent winter use in prolonged outings), check the functioning and tightness of the discharge valves infiltrations : check from the inside that there are no black lines, mould, swelling, bubbles and detachment of the covering , in the walls, floor and ceiling, in the attic and in the joints between the ceiling and the walls (also inside the wall units), around the windows and portholes, it is useful to spend a few tens of euros for a humidity indicator infiltrations : if you buy from a dealer, ask for the infiltration guarantee of at least 12 months, if you buy from a private individual, ask (at your own expense) to have an infiltration check