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Often a camper is able to give more autonomy to those with disabilities. I wrote on the subject in my article , describing all the operations we had to do on our motorhome, which was already born to be " for everyone ", to make it " for us too ". Naturally, disabilities are all different from each other, and I don't want to give trivial and obvious advice. So I invite you to read my article , to contact me or to leave your comment, for any exchange of ideas and opinions.

The concept of a camper's internal livability is very subjective, as a vehicle gets to know each other, each team overcomes minor challenges associated with confined spaces and learns to manage them. Clearly interior width is a result of caravan type and dimensions, and its use depends on the user's build and agility, but constructive attention and engineering of solutions can often make the difference between one model and another. The space in the "corridor" is important , for example you should open the wardrobe or refrigerator and check that you can easily access the contents, for example, you should check that doors such as refrigerator doors are not obstructed . and bathroom, decide if "some little hurdle" is bearable. Try the bathroom, lock yourself inside and pretend to brush your teeth, use the toilet, take a shower: can you do everything more or less right? Can you wash your children? In wardrobes and wall units, space is more related to usability than livability, check if the depth is sufficient (think of a robe or anorak to hang in the wardrobe), it is better for some wall units to also have a shelf that divides the space. interior space (but you can always do it easily), open the cabinets under the sink and stove, probably pots and pans will end there. What about shoes? In a cabinet that can also be accessed from the inside or in a special cabinet if available. Sometimes the floor has small hidden doors or interior steps that serve the bed, could this be for you?

There is no best camper, but the camper to buy should be evaluated in relation to your needs, habits, adaptability. A small camper with extreme internal convertibility could be fine for you (bed to be obtained by combining benches and tables, bathroom with integrated shower tray, roof bellows to be raised to have the necessary height internally ...), but it could be fine for me an "always ready" motorhome, bulkier but with spaces that are always usable. Which is the right choice? It doesn't exist, your choice exists which, among other things, will also change over time. The important thing is that the camper is comfortable to use "for you", and the concept of comfort is not universal. You can also buy a great pair of stylish shoes, but if they're uncomfortable and hurt, you won't be using them much. I was saying that to choose a motorhome you have to start from your needs and habits, or better still, those of the crew who will "normally" live in the motorhome . To help you understand which motorhome to buy , I have prepared some useful questions, if you can think of others, add them in the comments, we will improve this article together : how many will you normally be in a camper? how many adults? how could you sleep? in the attic or on a folding bed? (if not too agile, you may have difficulty using a ladder) double queue? (could it be difficult for those who sleep towards the wall to "climb over" those who sleep on the edge to get out of bed?) double with access from both sides? twin beds? How many children and what age? how could they sleep? on bunk beds? do they have to have safety net? in marriage? Is letting them sleep in the attic risky? Is the safety net enough? Are there any teenagers who won't be coming anytime soon? could they ask to bring a friend on holiday? do you have pets to bring with you? Think about the space for the kennel. Can you use the same solution for transport that you use for the car? Are you willing to "assemble and disassemble" a few beds every night and morning? (quick operation but limits internal habitability, for example if the table becomes a bed obviously you won't be able to use it if someone is sleeping on it). would you prefer to have a dinette (the table with sofas) always free? (if everyone is asleep you can use it with the computer, or have breakfast early in the morning if the others are still in bed) Should the kitchen always be available? (i.e. use must not, for example, be prevented by opening a fold-down bed) do you use the oven a lot? Do you plan to use it also in a camper? Do you prefer a large fridge or would a smaller but less bulky fridge also be fine? must the dimensions of the camper be very compact or, within reasonable limits, are you also willing to have a longer, taller and wider vehicle? Does the bathroom have to have a separate shower? (the shower tray is not the bathroom floor, the separation is made by curtains or a rigid door, in this way the shower "steals" more space, but it is more comfortable and can be used to dry laundry and wet clothes) will you be bringing bicycles, scooters or even a scooter with you? will it be just an occasional need or will it be almost normal? do you need a bike rack or an external motorcycle rack? better a garage locker? how will you mainly use the motorhome? for itinerant trips, changing seats every one/two days? semi-itinerant, with two or three "base camps" exploring the area in some way (bike, scooter, public transport ...), essentially sedentary? for overnight stops, do you prefer campsites and equipped rest areas or will you often stop for free? will you use the camper in every season? Once the needs have been defined as much as possible, try to make two lists: the primary ones and the secondary ones . This is because you may have to resort to some compromises, and it is certainly better to have a minimum of "priority list" in advance.

When we talk about campers, we always refer to a specific classification: pure camper, upper cabin, semi-integrated, caravan. These categories are not just aesthetic representations, but have characteristics that make them suitable or more suitable for certain types of crew, special needs, number of people, camper's most frequent use. Then there are the tastes and fashions, but I have little to say about them. A pure caravan (van) is a van (the manufacturer's original bodywork) set up to live in it. Ideal for smart couples, perfect for teenagers. Somewhat constrained interiors, but recently really innovative proposals have emerged, agility in transfers and parking (especially in vehicles up to 5.40 meters long). In fact, sometimes it is a 4-person caravan, but for me it is a 2-person caravan type. There's usually a rear double bed that's always ready, sometimes a roof folds up to accommodate two more seats (it can also be installed after market), in some cases the dining room can be converted to a slightly smaller bed, but I think it's for emergencies given the spaces and livability solution. It's important to experience the camper "outside" as well. An upper cabin undoubtedly has the living unit placed on the floor of a van (therefore only the driver's cabin in the original superstructure), while an upper cabin rests on the roof of the driver's cabin. Spacious, it usually has 4 beds ready at all times while keeping the rest of the vehicle ready. The layout includes a double bed in the loft and a second double bed or bunk bed at the rear. Although there are many, it is the most common arrangement among families. A type of caravan for 4 or more people (evaluate the layout, consider seats approved for travel and weight ). A semi- integrated is a no-top cabin (pardon the word for word), the same build typology is a 2-4 seater caravan, larger than a minivan, usually with a double bed in the rear and may have a second berth. but it is important that the lowered bed frees the entrance door, the dining room below is hardly used. The camper is a vehicle designed from scratch in the open body of the van without the original driver's cab. Spacious and integrated spaces, double bed always ready and unfolds in cabin. Although it is a caravan for 2-4 people , it is preferred by couples. The large and comfortable dining room is a real living room. Sometimes it is considered (wrongly or correctly) by someone as a destination. Aside from the status symbol, which does not interest me much, it is a very comfortable vehicle for in-car life in general. The continuity of space and layout it offers eliminates the difference between cockpit and cell.

Before delving into the subject of " how to choose a motorhome ", I must necessarily devote some space to the definition of some terms that I will use, sorry if they are already known to you, but maybe someone will need them. The cab is the driver's compartment, with the controls and seats for the driver and passenger. The cell is the living area of ​​the camper. The rear overhang , referred to simply as the overhang , is the part of the RV that "comes out" of the rear wheels. It is a feature to consider, as it affects the ascent of ramps and steep slopes (the classic access ramp for ferries) and maneuverability in narrow spaces, for example in a parking lot or camping site. "Conditions" means that it requires more maneuvers and attention in cases at risk, as there is a danger of touching the bottom (there are tanks and valves underneath) or the tail walls. Dinette is the dining room, the table with the two benches (one facing the other) which is found in every camper. Over time, semi-dinettes have also become more popular, i.e. dinettes with a single bench and with swiveling cabin seats, which complete the seats at the table. WC , well, you know what that is. However, in campers it fills up and every now and then it has to be unloaded, and this is precisely what characterizes its classification. The cistern toilet has a removable tank (generally 18 litres), the cistern, to be emptied into the appropriate ecological aids. The nautical toilet, on the other hand, has a fixed tank underneath, more or less than 70 litres, and to empty the contents you have to move the camper and go to the ecological center. It is possible to download the contents using special tanks, after having proceeded with the transfer through fittings. It goes without saying that the cistern toilet , despite having limited autonomy, never poses drainage problems (the right ecological protection is always found), while the nautical toilet sometimes it could be a problem. Gavone , is a storage room, a stowage space. The locker under the bench of the dinette is classic , or the garage locker , the large one located at the rear of the camper and which allows you to load bicycles or even a moped. Ducting , i.e. the heating "pipes" which carry the air to all areas of the cell, to check the distribution it is enough to see where the outlets are. There is no ducting in campers that have a radiator system (obvious). Excellent when it also involves the beds and the attic on the perimeter and heats the recovery tanks (insulated and heated). Awning , it is the extendable awning located on the entrance side of the cell, it can only be used in the spaces where it is permitted. BM , engine battery, is the battery that serves the mechanical means for starting the engine. BS , service battery, is the battery (or batteries) that power the unit's utilities. Pump , is the device used to draw water from the clear tank and push it into the water system, towards the taps. The waters : clear, gray and dark the clear water tank is that of drinking water, it is filled via an external filler that of gray water , is the recovery tank for the water used in the sinks and in the shower, it must be discharged exclusively into the appropriate ecological facilities that of dark water or sewage , is the sewage tank of the toilet, it can be the nautical tank or the cistern, this too must be discharged exclusively in the appropriate ecological facilities Camper Service is the ecological garrison where the gray and dark waters must be discharged. It is a pitch present in campsites, rest areas, equipped areas, sometimes in car parks and in motorway service stations. It consists of a fountain for water and a grate on the ground, or an equivalent solution, to be used for emptying the toilet. Leave clean, of course. The inverter is a device that transforms the current of the battery (12 volts DC) into "household" current, i.e. 220 volts alternating. It is used to be able to use 220v devices when not connected to the column. It is a useful device for charging batteries, mobile phones, cameras ... but if used for heavy loads (for example, a hair dryer) it can be dangerous and installation must be done by qualified personnel and the system must be suitably sized (even the battery pack, given the high absorption). As with GAS , even with electricity NEVER DO IT YOURSELF . If you want more information on how a motorhome works , batteries, water, heating, refrigerator, toilet ...

You may have already decided that the camper is the recreational vehicle that suits your needs, but a quick reflection, whether it's to confirm the choice or to evaluate options not considered, is a must: is a camper or a caravan better ? The camper (autocaravan), of any type, is a vehicle permanently used for the transport and accommodation of up to seven people . The driver's cab is not physically separated from the rear cell, so it's a single vehicle, while travelling, you can sit in the front seats (in the driver's cab) and also in the rear seats (in the cell). The number of approved seats for transport is indicated in the vehicle registration document, and represents the effective maximum number of passengers that can be transported while driving, including the driver. You travel seated and with your seat belts fastened (some old campers don't have them in the cell, so they are unsuitable for use with child seats). A motorhome is particularly suitable for traveling trips , where the vehicle is used to ring a route made up of trips and overnight stays scattered throughout the territory, even in sites not far from each other. It can also be used for "permanent" holidays, i.e. fixed in one place, but in this case you have to organize yourself to move around on a daily basis (bike, public transport, or the same camper used as a car). The immediacy of movement and parking (provided you don't "anchor" it to the ground with additional structures) and autonomy are its strong points . The caravan is a trailer used for residential use only when parked and must be hitched to a tractor for travel. With the same length of the living cell, the interior spaces are more usable than those of a camper , and there is generally a good functional separation between sleeping and living areas. It is particularly suitable for permanent or semi-permanent holidays (although some caravan owners use it easily and satisfactorily for traveling trips, exactly like a camper), as it can be used as a base camp (for example in a campsite) to visit with the car the area that hosts us, of course nothing prevents you from making "several base camps" in a nice journey in stages. The habitability and the availability of an autonomous means of transport are its strengths . In any case, a camper or caravan will allow you to get to know places and people, move around "breathing slowly" in the area that hosts you. In the journey there are not only a starting point and an arrival point, there is also the whole journey. If you always and only want to go from one point to another without experiencing what is in between , then the camper and caravan are not for you .

I've created this checklist for those preparing for their first camper trip. It is also useful for rental , both at the time of booking and when picking up the vehicle . It contains a list of tests and tests to be done to familiarize yourself with all the equipment and vehicle required for the camper, from the electrical cable to its documents. It does not contain a list of personal items, clothes, personal hygiene requirements, everyone knows how to organize themselves. Two tips from the list for those who want to rent: When booking a vehicle , check the possibility of loading drinking water at the time of pick-up. While picking up the vehicle , check the inside and outside for scratches, dents, broken headlights, glass, furniture... and if you notice anything, write it on the rental agreement. control List documents insurance certificate insurance ? __________ downloadable __________ green card tool booklet caravan instruction booklet stove and boiler instruction booklet unit instruction booklet Tenant's phone number for emergencies __________ roadside assistance for punctures? Number to call for roadside assistance __________ Caravan features approved seats on the go __________ beds __________ Dimensions and body outer height __________ length __________ length __________ front tire pressure _____ Message. _____ vehicle equipment spare wheel or tire set jack cross key for wheel change service battery switch (usually under one of the seats in the cabin) engine battery switch jump start cables triangle high visibility vest how much? keys double key set theft protection anti theft remote control in winter check tires (min+s) and chains as specified in CdS (depends on destination too) Fire extinguisher check if some countries have mandatory equipment (fire extinguisher, first aid, light bulbs), read this article for more information Cell equipment Cable for connection to 220v column leveling wedges hose or other system to replenish water cabin sun visors gas bottles (are they full?) propane loaded (for winter) cylinder change switch rear bike rack (as an alternative to the garage) dangling load mark (for rear bike rack) Tests and checks to be done enable and disable theft protection insert/remove batteries using battery switches (if applicable) turn the controller on and off turn lights on and off from the controller turn the water pump on and off from the control unit turn external light on and off opening and closing the electric entry step (if equipped) turn heating on and off temperature regulation turn the hot water boiler on and off activate and deactivate the frost control valve (truma) open and close the refrigerator check how to change power supply type of refrigerator - gas/12v/220v convert the dining room into a bed or vice versa (if planned to be used) foldable beds remove and reinstall toilet cistern open/close gray water drain valve open-close waste water discharge valve open and close the water filler cap open and close external cabinets check how the roller selector works (if there are two) check how the collision sensor works (if any) check the position of the gas taps (usually under the sink) check the position of the circuit breaker switch (220v) check fuse position check that the gray water recovery tank and toilet cistern are empty check that the gray and black water drain valves are closed Supplied kit or optional wash set Pots and pans fork/plate tablecloths and kitchen textiles bedding sets toilet fluids camping table and chairs camping table and chairs

In addition to the classic pre-departure checks, radiator fluid, oil level, windscreen wiper fluid, lights, remember to check how much gas you have in the cylinders . If you don't have a specific measuring system, it doesn't matter , the best and cheapest thing is to weigh the cylinder you just bought and write the weight on it, and then weigh it again when you need it (a dynamometer for a few euros is fine), you will always have the 'information about how much gas you still have (there is no more precise method, it's just a little inconvenient because you have to remove and replace the cylinders to weigh them).

Help: When I turn on the pump, water comes out from under the campervan, when I turn it off, the water outlet stops. How can I fix? You won't believe it but everything is fine, at least in 99% of cases I will explain why. The hot water boiler is equipped with an automatic system that prevents the stove/boiler from being damaged by freezing water. It is called the Frost Control valve (or ELASI) and has two versions: the first one is electrical and it empties the contents of the boiler when the room temperature drops below 4 degrees or the battery voltage drops too low (and therefore also turns on when you disconnect the battery). It consists of a small black box with a red button at the top: when the button is up the valve is activated (closed), when the button is down the valve opens and drains the water to the ground (outside the campervan) the second is mechanical and empties the contents of the boiler when the ambient temperature drops below 4 degrees. It consists of a black (sometimes gray) box with a blue switch at the top and a blue button at the bottom. When the button is out, the valve is open and therefore the water is discharged to the ground. To close (reset) the valve, turn the key (it should be perpendicular to the axis of the black box) and press the button. Why is it important to know the existence and functioning of this valve ? Because when you go to tour the caravan (especially in winter), you will need to take water and therefore you will have to fill the boiler. When you turn the pump on it will start bringing water to the boiler, but if the valve is open the water will come out and continue to come out from under the caravan until you turn off the frost control. To reset the valve, if it is cold, turn on the stove and wait a few minutes for the temperature in the Truma chamber to rise slightly. Some suggest methods to prevent frost control and prevent water from draining from the boiler: DO NOT leave the valve empty for proper operation, better to lose 10 liters of water than risk damaging the Truma Combi. Remember: on winter trips the heating must ALWAYS be left on day and night for the following reasons: prevents (or reduces) the risk of water freezing in the water system maintains the temperature inside the caravan prevents the frost control valve from opening and draining the boiler ( remember to always turn off the pump when you are not using water, at night and when you leave the caravan )

Always use only your rubber hose to fill the water. To keep the device clean, use the hose from the caravan service , wash your cistern as well, but don't plug it in, respect those who come after you.

Use two-ply toilet paper bought at the discount, the cheapest, I throw it in the toilet and I don't worry, I just try to keep the contents of the black tank (or cassette) not too dry If you can, buy a second box, keep it in a locker inside a heavy plastic bag, use it as a spare box if you can't empty the full one Shower : use little water, especially if your crew is large. I'm more of the idea of ​​not wasting water rather than adding extra tanks. Excellent and also cheap a new concept economizer. Can I suggest one more thing? Sponge and ... a classic bar of soap, better than shower gel

Let's say right away that you have two possible contexts: you have to leave it in the garage or in any case where you park it when you're not using it, or you have to leave it for a few hours for an excursion, a day at the beach, a bike ride. To storage Windows and portholes closed, window curtains drawn to keep out direct light. In reality, I put up the blinds on the windows, but if it's very hot and the windows get direct sun, the curtains are better. In the cabin, do not put the blinds with the suction cups, but pull the curtain around the cabin and, if you remember, unplug the windscreen wipers Fridge off, dry inside (I simply pass a paper towel through it), closed in the position that keeps a small crack open, I don't leave any food, not even in the wall units Beds covered with an old sheet, pillows in their envelopes, usually in the attic Inverter off, lights off, stove off, control unit off Empty tanks Batteries disconnected (with a battery switch it's a moment). If you have a solar panel it should keep you charged (and therefore you shouldn't disconnect the batteries), but it happens that too many dispersion discharges everything over long periods, I advise you to give it a try Camping or rest area when you go out and about 220v current connected Batteries plugged in (i.e. I don't use the battery switch) Closed cabin curtain or internal thermal blinds Mosquito nets down on the windows Windows ... it depends if I can - closed "at the first click" (the one that leaves half a finger open and allows you to close the safety levers) the higher ones in the rest area, if it's winter or if the weather is not good (wind, rain, changeability) I close them when camping, if they are in the area, open like a compass, but if the weather is not good I close them or put them "on the first click", closed in winter; if I go out for several hours I open them "at the first click" Portholes open, or ajar or closed depending on the season and the weather (watch out for the wind, it's better to close them) Awning ... sorry but I hardly ever use it. When camping, it can be left open depending on the weather, rain or wind recommend closing it. However, it is better to install the central rod that keeps it taut and supports it in the center (if compatible), the use of an anchoring system is also recommended Lights off, outside light off, pump off, pump off, pump off (so I'm sure you remember), inverter off, inverter off, inverter off (same story) Fridge closed and on (obvious, sorry) Stove lit in winter, low power, used to prevent the water from freezing in the pipes and to prevent the boiler drain valve from tripping