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From the point of view of the selection of the power source, there are two types of trivalent refrigerators: those with manual selection, where you set the type of power supply, and those with automatic selection that set it automatically (it is better, however, that they also have the manual position) . How to select the power source? Easy: when you are connected to 220v with the cable, put the fridge selector on 220 when you are parked but you are not connected to the 220v, put the selector on GAS when you're in motion, so with the engine running, put the selector on 12v. In this position, the fridge is powered only when the engine is running, when you stop the fridge switches off (if the stop is short, ok, otherwise switch it to GAS and remember to switch it back to 12v as soon as you leave ). Obviously, if the fridge is automatic, it will choose the power supply by itself.

Yes, of course, having a compressor fridge is better, it's colder and faster. But it makes noise and consumes the battery, and then you have it trivalent (me too), indeed condensing (it's the right technical term). And it's not that for this you are limited in the use of the camper, you can easily go around from the Alps to the Pyramids from Manzanares to the Reno. Just one piece of advice, have it checked every now and then because the voltage which must reach 12 or 220 volts must be correct, the burner must be clean, the flue free. And if you are in a hot area: be careful to orientate the camper so that the wall of the fridge is in the shade during the hottest hours if you can, remove the upper external grille of the fridge to facilitate the exit of the hot air (but be careful, this way you won't have the mosquito net which is usually attached to the grille) there are those who have fans installed on the eternal upper grille of the fridge, which extract the hot air. I had them on the first camper, and I must say that they certainly help, but when they are off they hinder the natural outlet of the air a little, forcing you to turn them on often, nothing serious, they absorb very little. After the first camper I never had them installed. if you can , turn on the fridge the day before leaving , and when you fill it up, don't stuff it too much and put things that are already cold a trick is to also put two or three frozen "tiles" in the fridge compartment , like those from a thermal bag, or a couple of bottles with ice cold water during the night move the briquettes to the freezer and put them back in the fridge compartment after breakfast , when you won't have to open the fridge for a while most important of all : if you forget to do the things i described above, it doesn't matter, just enjoy your ride

Doing things step by step will allow you to get to know your vehicle, its behavior in the cold, your needs in terms of energy and gas consumption. The beauty is that the camper offers many possibilities to learn by doing, and for this reason, in a short time, you will find yourself on New Year's Eve in the mountains with snow . It must also be said that campsites and parking areas often offer useful services even for those who want to stay still for several days, effectively eliminating the problems deriving from prolonged stops. But how and where to start? A nice long weekend , with two nights spent outside in temperatures around zero (-1 or -2 would be perfect), is ideal for a first test. Select a rest area, or campground , leave with full propane tanks, weigh them, and note the value on each tank. Then "waste" a couple of euros on electricity but don't connect it right away, instead try to understand how much electricity your stay in the camper absorbs in the afternoon, for dinner and in the evening. If the camper is equipped with battery monitoring systems , you will have direct information, otherwise you will have to go a little by nose , checking every now and then, turning everything off, the battery charge (even if the measurement should be done with the battery at rest): the value must be above 12.2 volts, a voltage which, "a bit by eye", indicates a discharge by 50% , already too much if you don't want to shorten the life of the accumulator excessively . Hence the obvious consideration of installing at least two service batteries . Energy austerity (do you remember the one from 1973? No? Lucky you) will teach you that without television you will have lots of other things to do with your family. At the end of this first weekend, re-weigh the cylinders to accurately measure the gas used, but keep in mind that with lower temperatures, consumption will be higher. (rule of thumb, at -10, with Truma combi, a cylinder does not last three days). What can be found in the equipped areas and campsites? Certainly the 220v , which will allow you to forget about the capacity of the batteries and the consequent austerity. The possibility of renting a propane cylinder (check with the manager), to be connected instead of one of your own. These are generally 20 kg cylinders that will not fit in your locker, leave them safely outside. Sometimes (it has only happened to me in a campsite) the structure can have a direct connection to gas , in practice on the pitch there is a long pipe to be connected as if it were a cylinder.

One of the problems that usually arise in campers is hanging up wet gloves, jackets, hats, especially if we are in the snow. There are various possibilities, from umbrella clotheslines to those applicable to windows (which in winter regularly end up being hung on raceways and open shelves). I don't like everything that hangs, there is always the risk that the excessive weight will ruin or break something. For me, the best solution in a camper is a vertical drying rack , roomy enough for everything, tall to hang jackets, stable, easily movable. At night you can put it in the shower, so that the warm air and a finger of the porthole open, dry it all up for the next morning . In winter I consider it necessary, in summer it will be, when possible, outside, like a normal drying rack. Some plasic trays for shoes with a mat on the bottom are useful for putting shoes on, especially if they are wet . If the motorhome has a heated garage (or large locker) with access from the living area, the trays will go there . For ice on the windows, avoid scrapers and hot water is absolutely forbidden, a de- icer spray is perfect, also for unlocking frozen locks, glued gaskets, guillotines, brake calipers . The silicone spray to be used for the guillotines and the drain valves of the black and gray waters, is excellent for softening the seals of the windows and hatches . Spray a small amount on a clean cloth and then pass it on the gaskets, it is better to make several passes with a little product rather than having to remove the excess. I have already mentioned the floor mats and the absorbent carpet in front of the door (internally). I add a piece of advice for the latter, it is better to buy a rectangular one with one side long enough (for example 55 x 100) and place it lengthwise in front of the entrance, you will have more space to dry your shoes upon entering. In the kitchen, a dish draining mat will be useful , to be used on the hob lid. Other ideas, especially on simple and useful everyday accessories in winter life in a camper, can be found in the article Useful accessories for winter .

The diesel contained in the tank at certain temperatures begins to suffer from the cold, the paraffin separates from the fuel and crystallizes, forming real wax plugs, the classic one in the filter. The result is that the engine does not get fuel and the heating does not work, if fueled with diesel, exactly as if the tank were empty. It is important to specify that in Italy from April to October "summer diesel" is distributed , which "freezes" (that is, paraffin crystals are formed) at -2 degrees centigrade. From November to March “winter diesel” is distributed, with freezing at -12 degrees ; to this, in cold areas, it is necessary to add a specific additive , don't do it at the last moment, but give it time (a few kilometers is fine) to mix well and reach every part of the fuel system. In the mountains "Alpine diesel" is available , which resists down to -18 degrees, so fill up at the mountain service stations, then taking care to cover a few kilometers, as for additives. Don't forget that with snow on the ground, the windscreen will also get dirty more quickly due to splashes of dirty snow mixed with salt, so to keep the windscreen washer system efficient, an antifreeze liquid for the windscreen wiper tank is ideal. The gas you have in the cylinders (or in the fixed cylinder) is LPG, i.e. Liquefied Petroleum Gas . LPG is a mixture of various gases, you are interested in the two main ones: butane and propane. I have dealt with the subject in depth in this article , but it is worth remembering that in winter, already at temperatures close to 0, what must be in your cylinders is propane . So ask your dealer specifically for propane cylinders. If you have a tank , you have to fill up at mountain service stations, because there the percentage of propane in the LPG distributed is the highest. As long as there is propane in the tanks , you will rest assured, because up to -42 degrees centigrade propane will continue to be usable ( read the article ). Do not cover the cylinders , leave them as they are, without putting on coats of any kind, the propane will continue to "work" precisely because there is heat exchange with the surrounding environment, which will take place up to external temperatures of -42. Have you ever taken a cylinder in a rest area or in a camping in the mountains ? They will bring it to you (generally weighing 20 kg) and you will connect it to your system instead of one of yours, leaving it outside . It will work great, it will be full of frozen frost, and this will more or less also let you know how much gas is still available. In short: no problem with propane, full of gas and diesel to do in the mountains, with almost empty tanks.

Very rigid temperatures, prolonged stops (read skiing holidays ) and "bare and raw" external tanks do not completely get along. There is no real middle ground, the tanks of the gray and black ones, for those with a nautical background, must be insulated and heated . I have had motorhomes with non-insulated tanks (and for two or three days it is not a big problem, as I explained above), motorhomes with insulated and heated external tanks via a derivation of the heating system ducting, motorhomes with insulated tanks and heated by an electric resistance . In my opinion, the best solution is to heat the recovery tank via a derivation of the heating system, the hot air jacket that is created around the tank will protect you from any inconvenience. The electrical resistance , again in my experience, is not equally reliable, it absorbs current and already at a few degrees below zero it may not be sufficient, however it is effective for the discharge guillotine , because heating it will allow it to open (just turn it on a few minutes before of the exhaust ). The insulation alone already solves part of the problem , considering that the water that goes to the tank is often hot and therefore its temperature will be partially maintained. In practice it is a matter of lining the tank externally with insulating and light material and, if you want to use a heating diversion to bring hot air, leave a small gap between the tank and the lining. I have never tried to insulate a tank directly, my campers were already born with this feature, but I would probably opt to have it done by a service centre. Features I would ask for: complete coating which however does not interfere with the drain valve and with a "minimum" overall thickness, in order not to lower the height of the camper from the ground creation of a small deviation (I mean with a small diameter) of the ducting to bring the heat into the interspace effective anchoring of the "box" created, there must be no possibility of detachment a solution to heat the guillotine (or the valve ), but without carrying too much heat to avoid deformation

Descending from the sink drains , the pipes should run in environments where the canalization passes and therefore be protected from frost , and generally have a slope and position that ensures the flow of water towards the gray tank. However, there may be flat points, elbows or curves which, in certain situations, create small pools of water . An old trick consists in blowing into the drain (like a blowgun), using a piece of pipe, to send away any water that may be stuck in the pipes. The most modern version of the blow pipe is the pump-operated sink plunger : lift the piston, place the small suction cup on the drain and "blow" (without exerting force, just remove the stagnant water) by pushing the piston .

Also for this, no problem if you have insulation and heating, but lubricate the drain valve anyway with a silicone spray and, if necessary, a de- icing spray . If, on the other hand, the recovery tank is not protected, there are at least three schools of thought: an antifreeze liquid salt an outdoor bucket I say right away that I'm not for any of these , I'll explain why. Put some antifreeze liquid in the tank. DON'T DO IT, it's highly polluting . I have nothing more to say, for me it is not a solution, ever. Salt dissolved in water lowers the freezing point . Consider that sea water freezes at about -1.7 degrees Celsius. It doesn't seem like a lot of gain , so you have to increase the density. Just to make a learned quotation , Galileo Galilei had already observed in 1600 that a solution of two parts of water and one of salt froze at -20 degrees . I have read, but not experienced, that a 6 to 1 solution (water to salt) would allow water to freeze at -14 degrees. 8 kilograms of salt per half tank of gray water (50 litres). Let's say our water is soapy, so it resists the cold more, let's say it's hot when it reaches the tank: is 4 kilograms enough? Maybe 3? And do the gaskets and metal elements of the guillotine get damaged in contact with a saline solution? Honestly I have NEVER adopted this solution. Place a bucket under the tank drain valve , keep it open and empty the bucket frequently. Meanwhile, if we are free this is prohibited by the CdS , then it is not decent (how disgusting these campers, they pour sewage in buckets outside the campers), therefore, possibly, only in the campsite or in a private parking area. But there is a risk that the dirty water will overflow and form a layer of ice under the camper, after dinner, in the warmth, we won't feel like going out to empty the bucket, and the little water that could end up there during the night, the tomorrow it will be a block. In short, perhaps the bucket could be an emergency solution like "in real time", I put it on while I'm using the water and take it off as soon as I finish. This, for me, is not a solution either . Then? For a weekend, even a long one, leave the water in the tank, as soon as you leave to return, the tossing and the rising temperature will slowly melt everything, at the Camper Service , you will empty it as soon as possible . And in other situations? For frequent and long outings? For temperatures several degrees below zero? Insulate, it's the only one. I'll talk about it in a bit

If you have the cistern, no problem , it is internal and in an environment sufficiently sheltered from frost. If you have a nautical tank, and obviously not insulated and heated ( otherwise it would be another no problem ), the only thing is to try to unload it as frequently as possible , perhaps immediately after the hottest hours. Before leaving, lubricate the guillotine with a silicone spray (it is often this that freezes, preventing it from opening). I have seen someone who used to heat them with a hair dryer to open blocked guillotines: I do not recommend it , excessive heat could deform them and then make them necessary to be replaced. If it is necessary to defrost, use only a de-icing spray , which is also useful for windows and locks . With a nautical tank you will have autonomy of at least 2 or 3 days , if this is sufficient for you, unload when you have gone down to a warmer area, the movement of the camper and the higher temperature will favor emptying. For needs of safe protection from freezing, for example for a journey in very very harsh climates, the solution for the marine black tank is to insulate and heat.

It is one of the major concerns: what if the water freezes? In the meantime, it must be said that a compact block of ice in the tank is unlikely to be created, and then we need to clarify: which tank is it? Is there any action to take? We distinguish the different cases. The clear water tank The main one is generally in a bench in the dinette , therefore inside the camper and sheltered from the outside frost. Keeping the stove on all the time will allow you to have no worries. If you also have a second tank , usually external and not insulated and heated, do not use it and leave it empty . Keeping the stove lit will also repair the pump, the expansion vessel (if any), the boiler from any damage, and will prevent the Truma frostcontrol valve (for those with the Combi system) from discharging the contents of the boiler at due to the low temperature. It may happen that in the morning water does not come out of one of the taps, this is because sometimes the canalization does not run close to the system or the latter passes too close to some grid or wall. For example, it could happen that the system passes behind the fridge in correspondence with the ventilation grilles . In these cases , the first step could be to insulate the pipes with a strip of neoprene , but the best thing is to make (or have made) a small deviation from the pipe (I'm talking about the section of the pipe), with a Y-fitting or T, and better heat the part where the pipes pass . Remember : when you leave the camper, at night, when you travel and in general when you don't use the water, always turn off the water pump , this is a good habit to keep at all times, in any season .

Have you ever taken a winter nap in your car? If you don't keep the heating on, it takes two minutes and you start to feel the cold outside. It 's the same thing in a camper , if you don't run for cover, the outside temperature will be the same in the driver's cab. It is absolutely the point from which you will lose the most heat. First, set the air intake selector to recirculation and close the vents , at least no gusts of freezing air will enter. The doors, at the bottom, may also have air vents, close those too if possible. And then… let's take care of insulating the cabin. The basic concept is to stop the cold as soon as possible , preferably outside the cabin. So the best thing would be to use an external full-face thermal blind . Excellent for the classic white week, when temperatures of -10 are the norm. Better if made up of two pieces, because it is more versatile in use and convenient for stowage. It must be purchased specifically for the cabin model on which to apply it. For snow habitués, especially for multi-day stops, I consider it necessary . Alternatively, you can do your winter outings anyway, shielding the cabin from the inside , even if the efficiency will certainly be lower. Anyone who has an overcab with a classic dinette can quite easily separate, even on the fly and in an emergency, with a blanket (fleece is perfect) brought down from the overcab to the ground , and to secure it, slip it between the mattress and the floor same as the attic. If there is, draw the curtain around the cabin, even if it is in summer, and do not put thermal blinds on the windows , otherwise ice will form between the blind and the glass; this does not apply to temperatures above zero , a situation in which thermal blinds will be very useful. In the morning the air in the cabin will be freezing (like everything you have left there) but the blanket will have done its job shielding the cell. For a "more professional performance", with a little dexterity you can create a partition with multilayer fabric, cutting it to size and applying it to the overcab profile (also on the sides) with snaps, the best ones can also create a passage (with zip or other system) between cabin and cell. For those wishing to buy it, there are excellent ready-made ones . However, I am not a supporter of cabin insulation, also because it is useful for storing some somewhat bulky things during the night. I prefer to have a good separation around the perimeter of the cabin, as in the case of the semi-dinette. For those who instead have a semi-dinette , the best "internal solution" is to put a thermal curtain inside the cabin , to be clear along its entire perimeter, making it reach the ground well, preferably a few more centimetres. Generally there is already a curtain that goes around the cabin, but it is not heavy enough, it does not reach the ground, it is often not wide enough, however we can use its rail to hook the "winter" one . Unfortunately this solution is not feasible "on the fly", you will have to prepare the tent, just as you will have to do a test to hook it to the cabin. Choose a light but thermal fabric, a fleece will be fine, sew a curtain tape on the upper edge, so that you can place the classic hooks on it. A tent like this can be easily stored in any locker, it is small and light. Obviously it can also be made by those with the classic dinette. Placing thick cotton mats on the floor, such as those used in the kitchen, will allow you to create some insulation from the floor to reduce the cold on your feet, and to absorb any water and dirt you bring inside. Personally I prefer the mat solution to that of a fitted carpet , even if the latter would insulate much better, because it allows them to be replaced frequently. In front of the entrance , internally, it is convenient to keep an absorbent non-slip mat on which to stop to change shoes before entering. Personal opinion I don't like the divider between the cabin and dinette , I tend to prefer having a larger space available and being able to use the driver's and passenger seats (even if they aren't swiveling), always useful for keeping the living area tidier by placing bulky things on it. Furthermore , by separating it from the cell, the cabin becomes really cold.

The forced distribution of hot air through the duct creates a fairly uniform temperature in the cell, but consider that in the attic it will be a little hotter than below, take this into account so as not to lower the stove too much if someone is sleeping downstairs . Personally I prefer cool to warm, so I leave the attic porthole slightly open (a couple of fingers, no more), in order to reduce heat stagnation and, as already mentioned, avoid condensation. Even the children, when they were small, slept on it, naturally with a protective net, positioned lengthwise (head on the side of the ladder and feet on the side of the low ceiling). By the way: during the march, everyone is always seated , with the belts or the seat, it is forbidden to stay on the beds . If the air ducting does not reach the attic, during the night put a blanket (preferably padded) along the lower part as a draft excluder (pack it without pressing it), it will protect those sleeping on that side from the cold of the wall. The air distribution often arrives around the beds, this means that there is a warm veil on the wall which avoids condensation and cold. But that's not always the case, and if it's really cold and you feel the wall frozen, do the same as for the lower part of the attic, try to keep the mattress detached from the wall by placing a blanket rolled up lengthwise, to form a nice large sausage, like a draft excluder. This expedient can be especially useful in those beds which have the side wall of a locker door.